The Story of Panama Hats
No product has probably ever been so misnamed as the Panama hat. These straw hats
have been handcrafted exclusively in Ecuador for over 500 years, and it remains
the only country in the world with such a long tradition of weaving.
Indeed, such is the quality and resilience of these Ecuadorian hats, they were the
protection (from the sun) of choice for the builders of the Panama Canal. When
President Roosevelt came to oversee the construction in 1906, photographs of
him appeared in the newspapers around the world wearing “his Panama hat” – and in that moment, the name was coined and subsequently stuck.
Visit Ecuador today, and you will see that the craft and traditions of weaving a
straw Panama hat have hardly changed. The precision and meticulous craft skills
have been passed down through generations. Weaving is still a way of life for
many people in Ecuador, for both men and women, notably in the villages around Cuenca
and Montecristi.
Such is the dedication to the craft that weavers work very early in the morning or in the evenings, when they know the humidity levels are at their highest, and the toquilla straw is at its most supple and malleable. The toquilla straw is woven in the home, out in the fields, along the road while walking children to school (sometimes with babies on their backs) or sitting in the market square at the weekends. The weavers split the toquilla palm straw into razor-thin strands, plaiting ring after ring of palm into soft-as-silk straw fabric, working from the apex of the crown outwards.
Each Lock & Co. straw Panama hat is blocked by hand using traditional methods,
trimmed with fine grosgrain ribbon, and finished with a beautifully soft leather or pure cotton inner sweatband. For longevity and shape retention, we add silicon inside the pinch. Perfect for warm climates, our Panamas are lightweight and breathable, and they feature Lock & Co.'s signature characteristics: quality, durability, and craftsmanship.
There are two classic weaves for crafting a genuine Panama hat; the Cuenca weave,
which has a herringbone pattern, and the Brisa weave, which has a less
intricate pattern of small interlocking diamonds.
The Cuenca weave is a few milligrams heavier than the Brisa weave. Weavers achieve
a finer weave by using a thinner strand, and the quality relies more on the patience, consistency and skill of the weaver. These fine woven hats take much longer to produce, which is reflected in the cost, and are much scarcer and more valuable.
Montecristi hats (derived from the town of the same name and protected with UNESCO heritage status) are woven in the herringbone style, and are typically in the finest,
narrowest weaves, although some of the super-fine Panamas can also be sourced from the Cuenca region.
Across the whole of Ecuador, you can count on one hand the number of craftspeople who have the knowledge and skills to create the ultimate Panama grades seen in our bespoke pieces, making them not just rare, but beautiful artworks to be cherished for life.
Lock & Co. believes that hand-weaving Panama hats is an essential craft worth
preserving. We take care that the weavers are paid fairly, and we only work
with trusted suppliers who are based in Ecuador. We only stock genuine Panama
hats that are made in Ecuador, using traditional methods, and seek the very finest straw hoods with which to block our hats, in exclusive shapes to Lock & Co.
Men's collection
Our men’s collection of genuine Panama hats offers a choice of weave. The bestselling and enduring Fairbanks, the timeless Classic and the ultra-fine Ventnor, which can take up to six months to make, are a Cuenca weave (herringbone pattern), while the sand-coloured San Diego and Santa Barbara, with their teardrop-shaped crowns, are a Brisa weave (small diamond pattern).
The ultra-fine Cuenca weave of the Superfino Montecristi is a hat of rare beauty, with a meticulously intricate finish and incredibly soft, silken feel. The Superfino is also available in a rollable version making it your perfect travel companion. Lock & Co. also offer a bespoke Panama hat, which can be tailored to your specific requirements and which takes up to nine months to weave.
Women’s Collection
Our collection of women's Panama hats delivers a feminine finesse and is the perfect complement to your summer wardrobe. Whether it is the stylish Berwick, the timeless Peacehaven, the elegant Lewes with the Cuenca herringbone pattern weave, or a dashing Cassis with the Brisa small diamond pattern weave we have a Panama for every occasion, including simply for relaxing in the sun. For something a little extra special choose the wide brim, Andrea from our 007 limited edition collection, and for sun drenched holidays the rollable St Ives white Panama hat makes an easy travel companion.
Panama Hat Care
A genuine Panama hat requires only a minimal amount of care to keep it looking perfect year after year. Here are some of our top tips:
Never pinch the crown of a straw Panama hat; be gentle with it, and instead hold it by the brim.
Panama hats are best stored in a hat box, and certainly away from direct sunlight at
least.
Regular steaming is highly recommended, and never dry a straw Panama hat that has been caught in a rain shower on a radiator or in an airing cupboard – let it dry
naturally at room temperature.
Our team of hatters can answer any questions about caring for your Panama hat
Have a scroll and discover some of our other articles, from press coverage to style guides and informational pieces.
Today, we proudly raise our hats in honour of a truly extraordinary milestone – Tina’s 20th anniversary as our cherished Millinery Manager at Lock & Co. Hatters.
A top hat is more than a finishing touch, it defines the entire ensemble. Whether for Ascot, a wedding, or a black-tie affair, understanding how to wear and style your top hat is essential to carrying it with confidence and poise.
A top hat should feel as distinguished as it looks. At Lock & Co., where craftsmanship and precision are paramount, achieving the correct fit is not only about comfort - it's poise, confidence and tradition.
A top hat is not only an investment in craftsmanship, it’s a piece of history. Whether made from rare silk plush or fine melusine felt, it deserves thoughtful care to preserve its condition for years to come.
Few accessories carry the gravitas of a top hat. At events where formality and tradition take precedence, such as Royal Ascot, weddings, investitures or civic ceremonies, a top hat doesn’t just complete the look, it defines it.
Few items of clothing carry the same sense of occasion as the top hat. At Lock & Co. Hatters, where heritage and craftsmanship meet, we consider it not merely a hat, but a symbol of timeless British style.
At Lock & Co., the perfect fit begins with precision. Whether you're selecting a traditional felt top hat or an antique silk piece, accurate sizing is essential for comfort, balance, and elegance.
With Royal Ascot just around the corner, Lock & Co. has put together this helpful guide to answer your most frequently asked questions about what hats, headpieces, and top hats to wear to Royal Ascot 2025.
A selection of the wonderful creations by the pupils of Blakesley Primary School are showcased in our shop windows of Lock & Co., 6 St. James’s Street, London, from Monday, March 24th, to Monday, March 31st.
